The Williamsburg Taiwanese bakery has only been open for a few weeks, but people are already buzzing about their food. The restaurant is a spin-off of critic’s favorite Win Son. The counter joint’s name is a bit misleading since in addition to doughnuts, custard toasts, and cookies, they also have savory dishes like a burger and a pork-knuckle breakfast sandwich. Grub Street proclaims Your New Favorite Burger Might Be at Win Son Bakery:
There’s melted raclette blanketing the burger itself, a garnish of scallions, and an actually special sauce that’s mayo-based and made with funky and savory doufu ru or fermented bean curd as well as ginger, scallions, and ketchup. It’s like the one they serve on Win Son’s big chicken bun. “Both use doufu ru in different ways. The big chicken sauce is more savory. It tastes like ham,” Brown says. “This is like a funky and sweeter 1,000 Island.”
It’s served not on Martin’s but a rich milk bread that pastry chef Danielle Spencer bakes in-house and which Brown says is the star of all their sandwiches. (For the breakfast sandwiches, you can also sub out the milk bread for a scallion pancake and pretend you’re eating a wrap.)
Eater calls Win Son Bakery a “destination” restaurant and raves about their mochi doughnuts:
Let’s start with the mochi doughnut ($4). Taxonomically speaking, cake doughnuts win loyalty via nourishing fluffiness, while yeast doughnuts find their purpose through light-as-air puffiness. Mochi doughnuts, however, are all about the chew. Taiwanese people have a term to describe this phenomenon: q, or, when it’s particularly extra, qq. Think: Something that’s firm, but not quite al dente, with a noted springiness or bounciness, like tapioca balls.
Pastry chef Danielle Spencer fries each doughnut to order. The exterior exhibits a dense bite, akin to a cool Twizzler. The inside, however, is squishy and gummy-like. A touch of salt counteracts the sugar, and a black-sesame toastiness pervades the whole affair. But most of all, you’re here for that qq, for the sensation of mochi tugging at your molars and massaging your gum line.
Win Son Bakery
164 Graham Ave, at Montrose Ave.