In case your cholesterol level isn’t already elevated from Thanksgiving indulgence, swing by Cheeseboat or Denizen. Cheeseboat opened earlier this year in the former home of Miranda on Berry Street and serves Georgian-style cheese breads:
Bread and cheese, cheese and bread; how can you not fall recklessly in love with a restaurant unabashedly predicated on this?
And khachapuri is only a starting point; consider mertsvi, a stretchy dip of melted cheese and mashed potato, kept warm by a sterno and meant for slathering atop bread. Or mini chvishtari, griddled coins of crumbly cornbread with oozing innards of cheese. And oh, there’s wine too, although not, as of yet, amber. While Davitashvili is charmed (and a bit bemused) by New Yorker’s sudden, current obsession, she’d sooner serve what you’ll generally find natives of Georgia actually drinking. That means Tsinandali, a dry, three-year-aged white comprised of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes, and Kindzmarauli–lots of it–a soft, semi-sweet red derived from Saperavi. Georgians tend to imbibe it like water, and (considering their famous hospitality and ardor for entertaining), Davitashvili will more than likely insist that you do too.
Where Cheeseboat is a family-owned restaurant serving delicious comfort food, Denizen will offer a more elevated approach to its cheesy dishes. Denizen is set to open on Friday at 88 Roebling Street:
A restaurant opening this week in Williamsburg dubs cheese its most valuable ingredient, employing some form of fromage in each of its entrees. Denizen, opening Friday on Roebling at North 7th Street, fancies itself a “cheese-centric” restaurant, using the versatile ingredient in some straightforward (cheese plates, grilled cheese) and unexpected (“french onion” toast) ways… The menu’s set to change with some frequency, so the opening menu has a bent towards cozy fall flavors, like a Warm Chicory Salad ($12) with apples, bacon vinaigrette and chevre (a tart goat’s cheese) and Fall Squash ($10) draped in Red Rock (a cheddar blue cheese), sage, ‘nduja sausage and pumpkin seeds.
Their version of grilled cheese ($10) tasks challah bread with holding together three different types of cheese and “boozy” onions, the whole of which can be dunked in an accompanying cup of tomato soup. Other bready options include that onion toast with oxtail and Timberdoodle ($12), a mushroom toast ($13) with the world’s most decadent cheese (Harbison), and the Salumi Sammie ($12) with Tubby, an alpine cheese aged in Brooklyn.
Where cheese lives, wine typically cohabitates. Denizen’s list makes note of sustainable, biodynamic wines where applicable, with vintages from Europe and the United States on tap and by the bottle.