Glasserie, 95 Commercial Street (Manhattan Avenue)
This was out secret little spot, so we’re sad to see the word is out. That said, we couldn’t agree more:
Seventy-two dollars for rabbit at a Superfund site?” my friend said, incredulous, when I invited him to dinner at Glasserie, a new restaurant in Greenpoint at the northernmost tip of Brooklyn, next to oil-spill-besieged Newtown Creek. He declined.
His loss, as it turned out. The rabbit was a glory: legs, confit in duck fat, with a frisson of smoke from the grill; saddle, scarlet with paprika; and belly and extra bits, simmered in rabbit-bone stock until exactingly tender. One of several large-format meals with multiple dishes, it was meant to feed three. Four found it ample.
But what set the rabbit apart was nuance. Hawayij, a Yemeni spice blend whose arsenal includes cumin and cardamom, boosted the flavor of the saddle’s lean meat and brought contour to the stew of rabbit trimmings, turning what were supposed to be leftovers into the showpiece.
The chef, Sara Kramer, spent time in the Marlow & Sons family of restaurants, most recently as executive sous-chef at Reynard. At Glasserie, she diverges from the New Brooklyn model by reaching back to the Levantine spices of her heritage. (Her mother is part Israeli.) Sea bream is dusted with urfa biber, whose concentrated sweetness evokes prunes, and served atop a slab of grilled watermelon jolted by Aleppo pepper. Another Turkish pepper, marash, brings a confluence of fruit and smoke to slow-roasted lamb shoulder.
More information here.