The restaurant is a pop-up, open on Wednesdays, inside the wine bar Bodega Wine Bar with Burmese comfort food:
These noodles can take the form of stir-fries, soups, or cold summer salads, with some dishes toggling between those modalities. Individual recipes vary from week to week, so that one Wednesday if you order beef shan noodle —attributed to a state in eastern Myanmar bordering China— it may be a heap of slippery and pungently oily rice linguine shot with beef nuggets, shredded omelet, crunchy peanuts, and cilantro, tasting powerfully of fish sauce and secondarily of tomato. Another week, the sauce might be thicker and more tomatoey, with a heap of ground beef almost like an Italian ragu. Either way, the noodles are memorably tasty.
Another classic is chicken coconut noodle, which may remind you of khao soi, the coconut noodle soup usually attributed to Chiang Mai, a city that lies just south of Myanmar in Thailand. At Rangoon NoodleLab, it’s a steaming heap of curried and stomach-comforting wheat noodles, enlivened by bits of pickled vegetable and crunchy rice cracker tidbits. But a couple of Wednesdays later, it had turned into a full-blown soup with plenty of broth heavily laced with thick coconut milk. The changes Moe weekly wreaks on her noodles provide a reason to visit her temporary establishment again and again.
There’s always a vegan selection, and it can be the week’s best. One time it was a bowl of translucent mung-bean threads laved in hoisin that provided a spicy kick in the pants. On another occasion it was a broad wheat noodle in a dryish curry with carrots, planked with something called chickpea tofu, warm and creamy like egg custard. The bowl came with fresh mint leaves quivering on top and a wedge of lime that moistened the noodles and sent the flavor into orbit. It was the spiciest thing going on in Bushwick that evening.
24 St Nicholas Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11237