They opened quietly a few weeks ago on Union Ave:
The two best dishes I ate here used tempeh, tofu’s firmer, cakier cousin, for textural balance and a subtle earthiness, and the results were excellent. The simple Tempeh Stuffed Avocado featured a mini mountain of the stuff, chopped into chunks and slathered in spicy mayo, exploding up from half a perfectly ripe avocado, a pile of watercress giving some crunch and bitterness, a drizzling of chili oil bringing the heat. This was the second time in a week I ate avocado paired with chili oil, and if other kitchens know what’s good for them, I predict you’ll soon be seeing this combo all over town.
Also very good was the Horseradish Tempeh entree, which arrives with a surprising amount of broth, but the soy “filet” and whipped potatoes hold up fine even submerged in the sauce, with pickled cabbage, various bitter greens, a bracing jolt of fresh horseradish filling things out nicely. The Stuffed Poblanos with Street Corn is a fine choice as well; although it piles a lot onto a plate, the dish gives everything enough space to register. The slabs of smoky yuba chicharrones and the fiery, charred rounds of some sort of squash were particularly memorable here…
Modern Love is a relative rarity in New York City, a serious—but not too serious—vegan restaurant with interesting, skillfully-made food that will also happily satisfy any omnivores at your table. Just don’t overdo the heavier-sounding dishes, and definitely get dessert.
317 Union Avenue in Williamsburg
(btwn S 1st and S 2nd Streets)
Weds-Sun 5:30 to 10:00pm
Closed Monday and Tuesday