615 Manhattan Avenue
(between Nassau Ave & Driggs Ave)
Brooklyn, NY 11222
Cuisine: Craft beer/ Scandinavian cuisine (see Luksus — the restaurant in the backroom of Torst — for menu)
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★
Cards: All major
Price: Fairly pricey for beer (but generally worth it)
Hours: Sun – Weds: 12:00pm–12:00 am, Thurs-Sat 12:00pm–2:00 am
Booze: Beer only
Subway: G train to Nassau, L to Bedford or Lorimer
Menu: see Luksus
NY Times Says:
Bars for beer geeks tend toward sober pedantry. But Torst, an ambitious bar that opened in March, doesn’t let its serious beer menu get in the way of the Brooklyn scene.
Torst feels a bit out of place on Manhattan Avenue, on a block populated by cheap hair salons and Polish restaurants. Behind a plain white door, a vision of Danish classic modernism rules. The white marble bar dominates the room. On the wall behind it, 21 steel-and-wood taps are marshaled into a perfect line. Intricate barn-wood walls, an old street lamp from Copenhagen and chairs designed by Borge Mogensen complete the look.
Nordic rusticity extends to the crowd. The men are the rugged, bookish type, with toggle jackets, thick-framed glasses and woolly beards. The women, too, seem to gravitate toward heavy knit sweaters, similarly toggled jackets, patterned tights for their legs and headbands.
On weekends, a steady swell begins at 6 p.m. and reaches capacity by 8. Tables are shared and passages wide, so even when crowded, the place is not unwelcoming.
Beer is an art form here, and the ever-changing roster of 21 brews are served in delicate stemware. Among them are beers from Mr. Jarnit-Bjergso’s own brewery Evil Twin, including the Femme Fatale, a light I.P.A. ($6 for 8 ounces, $9 for 14 ounces) and an imperial stout called Even More Jesus ($7, $11). There is also a cellar of rare bottled beers including a blond Belgian ale called The End of History, which is packaged inside a taxidermied squirrel (not for sale).
Beer nerds take note: Tørst beer bar is now open in Greenpoint. A collaboration between chef Daniel Burns and Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø—”world-renowned gypsy brewer” of Denmark’s Evil Twin Brewing—Tørst offers a selection of 21 draft and 200 bottled beers, including rare, international brews not seen before now in the States. Taking their meticulous love for beer to the next level, the guys installed a custom-built draught system called the Flux Capacitor, which allows individual draft lines to be temperature and pressure customized for specific beers, plus a system that allows for four different temperature controls. If you’ve never experienced a perfectly poured, 52° Imperial Stout, high thee to Greepoint immediately.
Jarnit-Bjergsø and 12 Percent owner Brian Ewing created the meticulously curated beer list, which includes multiple beers brewed exclusively for Tørat. The selection of beers will change often, but GrubStreet has notes on some current highlights, including two barleywines, lots of beers from Evil Twin and a few Swedish beers from Omnipollo Brewery. Though the staff can guide you towards making your ideal selection, the color-coded tap handles indicate the color of the brew, so you can also select that way if you have, say, a fondness for darker beers.
Sitting at the long, white marble bar you’ll get to listen to barkeeps describe all the brews and watch them pour pints. But there are also lots of tables and benches—constructed with oak and reclaimed woods—at which to sit and sip. Other than wood and tiles, there are no other adornments in the spartan space; but that’s all the better to help you focus on all that delicious beer.