355 Metropolitan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Cuisine: American, BBQ, Steak
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★
Cards: All Major
Price: $$ — $10-$70 (for a rib eye for two)
Hours: Sun-Thu, 5pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-midnight
Booze: Beer and Wine Only
Subway: L to Lorimer St.
Menu: Click Here
according to owner Joe Carroll, it’s not a steakhouse at all but an unassuming little spot that serves simply seasoned grilled meats and seafood. The Underground Gourmet, having eaten at a steakhouse before, would beg to differ. You don’t put a bunch of meat (not to mention iceberg wedges, spinach gratins, and thick slices of grilled bacon à la Peter Luger) on a menu and expect people not to notice. On the other hand, you don’t often encounter whole mackerels, head-on chickens, shishito peppers, and haloumi cheeses on most steakhouse menus, either. Nor do you typically find cooking this good and prices this reasonable (barring a couple large-format blockbuster items, easy enough for the U.G. to sidestep and stay on budget).
The beauty of this place, then, is not that it has everything a carnivore could ask for in a steakhouse—and more, including friendly service, tattooed cooks, and Led Zeppelin on the playlist. It’s that you can treat it like a casual neighborhood joint instead of a special-occasion expense-account extravaganza, and just drop in on a whim or whenever the craving for red meat strikes.
It’s also of a piece with Carroll’s equally charismatic neighboring ventures, Spuyten Duyvil and Fette Sau, which colonized a shabby Williamsburg intersection and breathed new life, respectively, into the craft-beer bar and the secular–New York–barbecue-joint genres.
NY Times says:
The new iteration is charming, with a pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody. Yvon de Tassigny, the restaurant’s chef, has matched great live-fire technique to excellent groceries, and reveals himself to be a master of off-cut lamb and beef. And his iceberg salad, served below warm bacon vinaigrette that melts a scattering of blue cheese across the top and softens the exterior of the crisp lettuce, is among the great things to eat on the north side of Williamsburg.