533 Grand St
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Cuisine: French Bistro
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: All majar
Hours: Mon-Thurs, 11am-4pm, 6pm-midnight; Fri 11am-4pm, 6pm-2am; Sat 10am-2am; Sun 11am-midnight
Booze: Full Bar
Subway: L to Lorimer St.
NY Mag says:
When he opened Marquet Patisserie in Boerum Hill in the late eighties, Jean-Pierre Marquet was a Smith Street pioneer. Since then, he’s relocated to Court Street, sold his Manhattan and Fort Greene outposts, and bought a manufacturing plant in Bushwick. Now he’s branched into the bistro business with Le Barricou, a Williamsburg restaurant whose French street signs leave no doubt about the restaurant’s provenance. Chef-partner Joab Masse’s menu, though, takes a multicultural approach, offering coq au vin alongside salmon over Asian long beans with Thai barbecue sauce.
French bistros may have surpassed the novelty threshold in North Brooklyn these days, but this spacious Williamsburg spot has been outdoing the competition with aplomb since 2006. Decor-wise, Le Barricou is a knockout, boasting an elegant bar up front, intimate candlelit tables, and a romantic back room complete with a library and fireplace akin to a rustic country home.
Le Barricou is famous for its weekend brunch—though you’ll have to put up with a long wait, your patience is rewarded with dishes like supersize berry-covered pancakes ($10), a stellar apple frittata ($10) made with bacon and gruyere cheese or a classic croque madame ($13), a French grilled cheese sandwich made with ham and topped with a dribbling sunnyside-up egg. Cocktails like Bloody Marys ($8), bellinis ($7) and Kir Royales ($8) round out the meal, and you can also opt for fresh squeezed orange and grapefruit juice ($3-$5), along with the usual coffee and tea offerings.
But dinner at Le Barricou is no wash, either. Fill up on flavorful hors d’oeuvres like escargot ($9) and mussels mariniere served with frites ($16); the Le Barricou house salad ($10), made with tomato, bacon, parmesan cheese and croutons, is a decadent treat. For entrees, the burger ($13) is a juicy hunk of grass fed Pat la Frieda beef, served with housemade pickles on a buttery brioche roll and paired with a side of frites. And the Coq au van is a delight, chicken cooked in rich red wine with lardon, baby carrots, pearl onions and a creamy potato puree.
The restaurant also has a number of classic cocktails and signature drinks, like the Scotch-heavy Blood & Sand ($10) and a sweet, hot Bourbon Milk Punch ($10) for cold weather. There’s a wide selection of beers, wines and absinthes for your boozing pleasure as well. Best of all, Le Barricou now takes credit cards, so though there’s still an ATM machine in the back, you can feast without having to fork over all your $20s.