425 Graham Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Cuisine: American Traditional, American New
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ Good
Hours: Mon-Fri 12 pm – 11 pm; Sat-Sun 11 am – 4 pm; Sat-Sun 5 pm – 11 pm
Booze: Beer & Wine
Subway: L to Graham Ave.
Time Out says:
Fanny is filled with antique-looking exposed-filament bulbs (replicas of the first model created by Con Edison); wood, slate and concrete walls; and cherry-maple wood tables. The owners, both French expats, have stocked the menu with bistro classics: An appetizer of steamed mussels is served in a terra-cotta crock with an addictive buttery and garlicky white-wine-and-shallot sauce. Among the entrées, the roasted chicken with mushrooms fricassee and spinach is most notable for its delightfully tender and juicy meat and for the way the chef—a French-trained Japanese man named Hiro Kiriyama—cooked the skin to a perfect crisp. Kiriyama prepares the desserts, too, and his gooey, raisin-and-pine-nut-studded apple strudel with fig ice cream arrived warm and tasted freshly baked.
NY Mag says:
Named after the thirties romantic drama by French author and director Marcel Pagnol, Fanny evokes a romantic mood all its own. Design-wise, first-time restaurant owner Julie Eck is on target: The architectural styles in the long, narrow dining room fuse mid-century California Art Deco (brushed concrete and bricks) with country house (old wooden bar and tables), and it works. Glowing bare bulbs hanging from the pressed-tin ceiling set the mood for a predominately mellow young crowd. The kitchen uses the freshest of ingredients and simplest of styles to match the bucolic mood, blending no-frills Southern French cooking with subtle Italian and Mediterranean influences. Dishes feel light, despite the heavy use of olive oil, bacon fat, and garlic. Entrées are winning, too. Moist grilled pork chop is seasoned with a hint of tarragon, and the codfish is served over pungent ratatouille and topped with fried artichokes. The amour in the air follows through to desserts like lavender blanc manger, an ethereal vanilla custard with a whisper of lavender—just enough to transport you to Provence, at least for a few glorious minutes.