603 Hart Street
Brooklyn, NY 11221
(b/t Evergreen Ave & Myrtle Ave in Bushwick)
Cuisine: Po’ Boys, Seafood Baskets
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: All major
Hours: Daily 12:00 pm – 12:00 am, open until 2am on weekends
Subway: M to Central Ave, J, M, Z to Myrtle
it’s a thrill to find that Bushwick newcomer Orleans Po Boys has absolutely nailed the original, french-fry bearing version of the sandwich. The place is located under the M tracks at the acute corner of Myrtle and Hart, really just a food truck with a corrugated fence around it. There’s plenty of counter and picnic table seating, making one wonder what’s going to happen in the winter. No matter, for now the place is nearly perfect. As is doctrinaire in the Big Easy, they are available in two sizes, what might be designated a shorty and a half po’ boy, the latter about eight inches long, the former around five. At $7 to $10 each, the shorties are something of a bargain. The french fry version was piled high with fried potatoes, standard diner french fries and not ones so good you’d be forced to pull them out of the sandwich and eat them separately. The french fries are ennobled by the high-quality bread, but what really makes the sandwich killer is the gravy. This is beef gravy like someone who went to cooking school might make, generously flecked with coarse-ground black pepper. A little mayo and some greenery serve to run a little interference, but also to make the sandwich unspeakably lush.
Village Voice says:
Of the catfish and the shrimp, we liked the shrimp the best — the plump prawns were nicely crispy, and the remoulade, which was good and tart, was used with restraint. We’ll leave the bread debate to the diehards, because we understand natives of New Orleans may have much to say on that subject, but we found the crust of the bread less, well, crusty than we’ve seen in other po’boys — though the sandwich had good chew. Overall, while prices seem a scoach steep, this is a solid snack, especially if you’re stumbling home from, oh, Bossa Nova Social Club, which is a partner in this venture.