98A South 4th Street
Brooklyn New York 11249 (between Bedford and Berry)
Cuisine: American (New), Italian
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: All Major
Hours: monday through thursday from 4pm to 2am; friday and saturday 4pm to 4am; sunday from 4pm to 2am
Brunch: saturday and sunday from 8am to 4pm
Booze: Full Bar
Subway: L to Bedford, JMZ to Marcy
Village Voice says:
Soldini, who has worked in some of the world’s best kitchens, including a three-year stint at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and apprenticeships at Per Se and Daniel, has created a menu that combines the culinary mindset of Italy with the ethos of his new home in the U.S. With a menu that will change at least four times per year, the eatery is focused on serving items grown, reared, and produced in the United States. The wine list mostly hails from California; the beer list is craft; even the vodka is sourced from within the borders.
The style of fare is New American, “with a touch of Italian,” says Bernocchi. Appetizers are broken down into meat, vegetables, and fish. Expect to see dishes ($9 to $10) like leek and squash soup, and wild striped bass sashimi, watermelon radish, and orange sour cream. Main courses run $12 to $20, and include items like sweet-potato gnocchi with winter mixed mushrooms, bacon, apple, and brussels sprouts, and duck breast with kale, orange, pecan, and glazed pearl onion. Cheese plate options and desserts (think vanilla ice cream sandwiches with chocolate and raspberry sauces) make up the rest of the menu.