between Bedford and Driggs
Williamsburg, Brooklyn 11211
Cuisine: American (New), American traditional, small plates, seafood
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: Full bar
Hours: Mon-Thur 6pm – 10pm (Bar open until 11pm); Fri-Sat 6pm – 12am (Bar open until 1am); Sunday 11am-10pm
Brunch: Sunday 11am-3pm
Booze: Full bar
Subway: L to Bedford, JMZ to Broadway
Village Voice says:
Village Voice says:
The last tragic days of Dressler in mid-2013 have been endlessly rehashed and need not be recounted here, suffice to say original chef Polo Dobkin has been reinstalled and the interior completely revamped. While the original build-out was dark and baroque, the new space, while eerily recalling the old in its L-shaped layout, is now bright and open, done in pale earthen shades with whitewashed rusticated stone walls. Statuesque dark brown banquettes line one wall, behind which a pure light streams upward. The bar focuses on its bottles, and a loft right over the front entrance bristles with herbs, taking advantage of the restaurant’s sunny southern exposure. One might be sitting in the lobby of a ranch resort somewhere outside Santa Fe. On a first visit 10 days after the official opening, the food was mainly terrific.
The herbs readily find their way onto the menu, which is divided into four divisions, excluding desserts: cured and raw seafood, snacks, apps, and entrées. As with most modern places, smaller dishes are the focus. A meal that a friend and I shared started out with a bang, with baby artichokes ($16) lightly crumbed, sautéed, and surmounted by an arugula salad slicked with a sort of homemade ranch dressing. We’d asked to have our dinner broken up into three courses, with artichokes as a prelude, and along with it came warm bread in the shape of a bialy sided with a yogurt-herb spread. The bread looked dorky, but tasted good.
Despite mild disappointment with the plancha marina, our meal at Meadowsweet was memorably delicious, with the free-form ravioli a favorite. There were a few service issues, which will hopefully be resolved by the time you visit. There was a delay of over 20 minutes between the time our second course was whisked away and the entrées arrived, so the kitchen output rate is uneven at this point. And, distractingly, the senior front-of-the-house staff spent an inordinate amount of time trying to level wobbly tables, crouching awkwardly in a sort of recurring comedy skit. Fix that shit before the diners arrive! Otherwise, I had a memorable meal at Meadowsweet that left me and my guest eager to return.