567 Union Avenue (North 10th Street)
Brooklyn, New York 11211
view map

Cuisine: Italian
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: All Major
Price: $31-60
Hours: Mon-Sun 5:30 – 11
Brunch: None
Booze: Full bar
Subway: L to Bedford or Lorimer, G to Meropolitan
Delivery: None
Grub Street says:

Although Missy Robbins wasn’t originally looking to open a restaurant in Brooklyn, the former A Voce chef was captivated by the freestanding setting of a former Williamsburg auto-body shop. That skylit space, now an airy expanse of tile and whitewashed brick, reflects the unfussy spirit of the menu. Despite the presence of a few meaty options, Robbins gravitates to vegetables, seafood, and handmade pastas like one filled with sheep’s-milk cheese and sauced with saffron. The centerpiece of her open kitchen is a Grillworks wood-fired grill and rotisserie, on which she cooks everything from chicken and swordfish to chicories, potatoes, and clams.

In Style says:

Lilia, which officially opened its doors January 19, is already garnering hype for its deliciously fresh pasta. Prior to my reservation, a co-worker insisted that I try “the ruffle-y noodles,” a dish she’d seen cropping up on her Instagram feed. As it turns out, the said noodles—more formally known as malfadine with pink peppercorns and parmigiano reggiano—is already one of the eatery’s most popular plates. Perfectly al dente and creamy with just a trace of welcome heat, it’s clear why the malfadine is gaining a reputation. Equally wonderful is the papardelle with veal bolognese, porcini, and nutmeg, simple in its ingredients yet complex in flavor. Chef Robbins’s attitude toward food is reflected in Lilia’s no-fuss interior décor: high ceilings and whitewashed walls accented by refurbished iron casement windows, exposed brick, and natural wood tables. The custom-made neutral ceramic serveware was crafted by Jono Pandolfi, whose work is also featured at renowned N.Y.C. restaurants The NoMad and Eleven Madison Park. In fact, the vessels provided Robbins with inspiration for her famous malfadine. She sprinkled the pasta with pink peppercorns to compliment the blush exterior of Pandolfi’s bowl; serendipitously, the combination was more than just anesthetically pleasing. To conclude our epic meal, we indulged in a classic olive oil cake topped with fresh whipped cream and peaches, an unbelievable rustic apple crostata that Robbins insisted we eat with our hands, and a serving of decadent chocolate gelato dusted with espresso powder. (A Lilia take-away café, opening soon in Williamsburg, will feature this gelato, along with housemade pastries, sweet and savory focaccias, and sandwiches.)