95 Commercial Street
Brooklyn, New York 11222
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★
Cards: All Major
Price: Small Plates $7, entrees $13-$20
Hours: 530p – 11p (12a Fri/Sat)
Weekend brunch 10a – 4p
Booze: Full bar
Subway: G Train to Greenpoint Ave.
Time Out says:
In an old industrial glass factory, Sara Kramer (Reynards, Blue Hill) and Sara Conklin (Cipriani) bring a touch of the breezy Mediterranean coast to the gritty Greenpoint waterfront. Kramer—a locavore vet who also put in time at Roman’s and Diner—oversees a small-plates spread with a heavy emphasis on seasonal produce. The menu spans Spain, Greece and the Middle East, in dishes such as lamb tartare alongside bulgur crackers; roasted chicken over black chickpeas and cilantro; and a whole rabbit for two, served with flaky flatbread. At the horseshoe-shaped bar, the wine list focuses on exotic locales, including Croatia, Portugal and Morocco, and cocktails follow suit, spiced with ingredients like Aleppo peppers, muddled mint and harissa. Sea-foam-green walls conjure the ocean, and potted plants enliven the rustic 72-seat interior, outfitted in whitewashed brick and framed catalog prints from the erstwhile factory. A cobblestone courtyard serves as a setting for private parties, but a terrace, transformed from the loading dock, provides riverside breezes any time of day.
NY Mag Says:
The “how’d they end up here?” Newtown Creek-side location, the atypically roomy layout, the quietly inventive melding of zesty Middle Eastern flavors with Über-seasonal produce—all these factors conspire to make the month-old Glasserie truly unique. It’s hard to categorize the cooking, but bowls both small and large tend to share a few distinguishing structural characteristics: a puddle of tangy sauce below, a smattering of bright herbs on top, and the dish’s featured ingredients shoved to one side in an artfully off-kilter arrangement. This formula applies equally and deliciously to hot grilled za’atar-spiced radishes over whipped feta, mini-torpedos of lamb and bulgur “croquettes” (a.k.a. kibbeh, stuffed with mint and peas) submerged in nutty tahini, and sliced chicken breast, simultaneously moist and charred, in a puddle of beer-enriched almond milk. Both the parathalike “flaky bread” and the hot, za’atar-spiced flatbread are baked in-house and compulsory, especially in concert with rich, creamy labneh for dipping. Cocktails are shaken with conviction and, at mostly $9, priced to move. And the chocolate tart, topped with sesame whipped cream? Bittersweet perfection.