436 Jefferson Street
(b/t Wyckoff Ave & Scott Ave in Bushwick)
Brooklyn, New York 11237
Cuisine: Italian, American (New)
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ Great
Cards: All Major
Booze: Full Bar
Subway: L to Jefferson
Menu: click here
[From] Northeast Kingdom vet Kevin Adey and his wife Debbie Adey (formerly of Jean Georges)…. The airy warehouse space has been tricked out with a wood-fired oven that will be used for baking bread and roasting dishes like porgy, served with peas and bottarga and emmer. The prices are pretty reasonable — nothing on the menu, even the entrees, goes for over $20. The Menu: The seasonally rotating menu features house-made pastas, like egg pacchieri with pork bolognese and ramps, and some less traditional/more modern Brooklyn dishes like skate wings with cracked rice and anchovy, and sweet pea porridge with morels, local grains, and whey. With a note on the menu about farm suppliers, there’s a pretty clear focus on local and sustainable dairy, meats, and seafood here. As for the drinks, Justin Lane Briggs came up with the selection of house cocktails that run the gamut from serious and boozy, to more refreshing choices like the Archangel — Greenhook gin, Contratto vermouth, and cucumber.
Village Voice says:
The warehouse is 2,500 square feet, but the Adeys installed only 50 seats to keep it airy. Walls are white, and kitsch is nonexistent. Tables are custom built so that they’re a bit larger than normal — that way, says Kevin, you’re not moving plates around, Tetris-style, when more food comes out of the kitchen. There’s an area by the bar where people can hang out while they wait for a table, too, so that they’re not reaching over bar diners or infringing on their space.
Service is designed to match. “We wanted to be able to provide top-notch service,” says Kevin, “so that people aren’t pouring their own wine and water. It’s little things, like the staff wearing aprons so you know who works here.” As for the food, Kevin is sourcing seasonally, locally, and sustainably, to put together a board of dishes that includes house-made pastas, a wood-fired porgy, steak, and porridge. “I’m really excited about the porridge,” says Kevin. “We’re milling our own flour and grain here. A couple of times a night, I mill emmer, wheat, corn, and oats, and cook them like a porridge. It’s served with morel mushrooms, English peas, and whey, which is the byproduct of the ricotta we make. It’s a beautiful spring porridge.”
Grub Street says:
The former Northeast Kingdom chef only purchases meat and fish from farmers and fishermen with whom he is on a first-name basis. He honors the animals he serves by using every bit of them in his cooking. He even mills the organic flour for his housemade bread and pastas like green-garlic lumache with fiddlehead ferns and favas. Although Adey didn’t personally forge the metal for the cutlery, or build the open kitchen’s wood-burning oven or the furniture that fills the rustic, 50-seat dining room, you get the impression he would have liked to had he had the time.