Dokebi Bar & Grill

You see a Korean restaurant in Williamsburg, and immediately you think scene over substance. That this is not the case at Dokebi is evident as soon as you start slurping soon dubu, an unapologetically briny, fiery stew of clams, shrimp, and tofu. Fortunately, this dish is no aberration. Except for a flavorless rendition of japchae, the classic glass-noodle stir-fry, the food is fresh and tasty, from the banchan, the collection of little dishes that accompany the Korean meal, to the bibimbap, a pile of rice, meat, and vegetables that cooks in front of you in a scalding hot stone bowl.

While Dokebi isn’t as authentic as a K-Town favorite like Kunjip, if the name of your game is comfort, than you’ve come to the right place. You come for three things: ridiculous Korean BBQ tacos, Bibimbahp in a hot stone bowl, and the extremely Chronic Brunch that’ll take good care of your hangover,

a thoughtful, health-conscious menu that does not so much forsake tradition as refurbish it, with modern fixings… On a drizzly night, a trio of friends sat down on maple-wood seats hand-built to resemble those in the courtyards of traditional Korean homes. Over yuzu cocktails, the group began grilling slices of crimson kalbi (Angus off-the-bone short ribs) and sashimi-grade tuna, an addition that Kim made to accommodate pescatarians… Next up were Korean tacos, ranging from spicy fish to pork shoulder to tofu. All arrived on corn tortillas (instead of flour, for gluten-free diners), plumped with bean sprouts, lettuce, and radish. The unanimous favorite dish? Samgyeopsal, braised grass-fed Berkshire pork belly that crisps into golden hunks and melts on the tongue like a good dirty joke told by a dokebi: a touch naughty but indisputably satisfying.