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Chef Patti Jackson features traditional Mid-Atlantic and New England recipes “from Baltimore to Buffalo” in a laid-back dining room with flavors that are polished but still homey. She shines with her desserts (green tomato pie!) but dishes like ricotta dumplings, roasted pork loin, and roasted hen-o’-the-woods are all fantastic. (The menu is always changing). The one catch is that you can’t order a la carte, but since the tasting menu is only $48 for four courses, we’re not complaining.
The food is all sourced locally from the Northeast, and the beer and wine list is small but masterfully curated… although the kitchen displays a high level of culinary craft, Delaware and Hudson doesn’t take itself too seriously. We like that a lot. The meal starts with a smorgasbord of appetizers to share, followed by a pasta course, entree, and a dessert.
Jackson is that rare thing, a pastry chef by training who effortlessly floats back and forth over the sweet and savory divide. (All breads and pastries are baked in-house.) She’s also a devout Greenmarketer, a fact reflected on a typical spring menu: Ramps are everywhere, from the butter that accompanies breakfast radishes to the “kraut” topping walleye pike fritters to the garnish on leg of lamb and striped bass entrées. Her pasta background comes in handy, too; if the menu didn’t tell you otherwise, the farmer’s cheese dumplings with flowering wild mustard might be gnocchi.
looks the part of the contemporary Brooklyn restaurant that preaches all things local and seasonal. The tables are bare wood. The ceiling rafters are exposed. Pickle jars sit above the kitchen door. The walls are pinned with glamour shots of farmers’ market bins piled with strawberries and purple-tipped asparagus. The restaurant stands out from the pack, though, in part because Ms. Jackson draws on the traditions of long-gone Americans who would have been amazed to hear that farm-to-table would become a slogan one day.