We’ve been excited about this restaurant for a while now, so we’re happy to report that General Debs is now open. It’s from the same people behind the Italian restaurant Faro and formerly Northeast Kingdom. Sichuan is a pretty big departure from pasta, but we trust they know what they’re doing!
From the team behind the one-Michelin-starred Faro comes a new noodle-focused Sichuan restaurant General Deb’s. Faro founders Kevin and Debbie Adey open their new restaurant in Bushwick tonight at 24 Irving Ave., near Jefferson Street.
Chef Kevin Adey started cooking his own noodles and dumplings at home and for family meals at the Italian Faro and decided to take his new obsession to the next level by planning a Sichuan restaurant with wife Debbie. Adey is not Chinese and has made a name for himself cooking New American and Italian food, so General Deb’s is a new direction for the chef who says he fell in love with the cuisine.
Thus, General Deb’s serves traditional renditions of Sichuan classics, like dan dan mian, a noodle dish with minced pork, chili, sesame, and peanut; la zi ji, stir-fried chicken with chili peppers; and mapo tofu, braised tofu, pork, and spicy chili sauce. The full menu is below, and the restaurant will sometimes serve off-menu specials like whole fried fish with Sichuan sauce and whole roasted rabbit with a chile-and-fermented-bean-paste sauce.
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The menu at General Deb’s pays tribute to the provincial cuisine using sustainably raised meats from Autumn’s Harvest Farm in upstate New York, like rabbit that’s roasted whole and slicked with a chile-and-fermented-bean-paste sauce. The bean curd for mapo tofu will be made in-house, and “fish slices in fiery sauce” will employ local seafood like black bass rather than the ubiquitous tilapia. There will also be wontons in red oil, dan dan mian, twice-cooked pork, cumin beef, and gong bao ji ding (a.k.a. kung pao chicken), plus a full bar serving beer, wine, and cocktails.
Adey is known for his pastas at Faro, which he makes from house-milled flours, and plans to eventually do the same for all his noodles at General Deb’s. But to start, he’ll outsource some from ramen kingpin Sun Noodle for iconic dishes like niu rou mian, the Taiwanese beef-noodle soup said to have originated with the influence of the Sichuan military families who migrated to the island after the Chinese civil war. Instead of the shank and tendon that usually populate that bowl, Adey is garnishing his anise-infused broth with red-cooked cow’s-head meat, in keeping with his whole-animal-utilization philosophy. “Cows have heads, too, and they’re excellent for soup,” he says. “At Faro, we fill the tortellini en brodo with meat from the head, and the consommé we make out of it is insane.”
24 Irving Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11237